Friday, 26 October 2007
House sitting
What kind of properties are on offer?
Properties include houses, churches and castles, so you could end up living it up in a sprawling country pile for just £50 a week. Check out the full list of available properties.
How much will it cost?
Weekly rents are about £25 to £60, including all utility bills, with a £300 returnable deposit. Other costs to bear in mind include a £50 placement fee per property and you’re also obliged to purchase a fire safety pack from Camelot for £60.
You need to be flexible
This scheme won’t be suitable for everyone; you’ll need to be flexible, as you could be told to move out at anytime (though many guardians live in the same property for years). Also, while some properties are brand spanking new apartments, others need a bit of work doing, so this is more suited to adventurous types.
As no one in MSE Towers have tried this, we can't vouch for success or not, but would love MoneySavers feedback.
Self-build property: what are the tax advantages?
Though relatively straight-forward, moving into an existing property in today’s market is by no means cheap. It’s one reason for the growing popularity of self-built homes. Sure, the stress and strain of dealing with everything from faulty septic tanks to sinking foundations may be enough to have you rushing for an estate agent’s office. But the fact that the average completed self-build property can be worth between 25-30% more than the cost of building it might be enough to have you taking a step back outside.
Self-build property: what are the tax advantages?
There are also some attractive tax advantages to building your own home. Stamp duty is only due on the land that you buy, and then only if it costs more than £125,000, while VAT is reclaimable on materials and labour. There’s also the added satisfaction that, in bypassing a developer, you’re instantly wiping out his profit. It’s no surprise that the sector is attracting a growing level of interest – mortgage brokers reckon that between 10% and 12% of all new homes in the UK are now being self-built.
Unsurprisingly, Gordon Brown has noticed the hullabaloo, and was this week reported to be looking again at introducing a “planning-gain supplement” – basically a tax on developers great and small. According to a recent report from property consultancy Knight Frank, this new land levy from the chancellor might be enough to discourage smaller developments by making them unviable.
Self-build property: plots, loans and planning permission
However, the levy, if introduced at all, isn’t due until at least April 2008, which means there is still time to find a plot of land on which to build. Lenders such as Norwich and Peterborough, Nationwide and Leeds Building Society typically lend up to 95% of the cost of building a property, and 95% of the cost of purchasing the plot. And it’s the latter that will probably give you the most headaches, as well as taking the biggest chunk from your wallet in a country already heaving at the sides from overdevelopment. “Ask any self-builder the main hurdle to getting the home of their dreams and they will tell you that finding a suitable piece of land is the problem,” says Jason Orme, editor of Homebuilding & Renovating magazine, in the FT.
To make matters worse, lenders will refuse to finance your new home unless at the very least it has “outline planning permission”, although some will require even more advanced planning permission. As a result, plots of land with even the most basic form of planning permission don’t come cheap. The average plot starts from £120,000 in Surrey against just £45,000 in Durham, says the FT, and should typically account for 30% of your overall budget, says The Sunday Times.
So planning your costs is paramount to successfully building a new home if you’re looking for that 25-30% uplift. And, of course, remember to keep your fingers crossed that the property market doesn’t collapse mid-build.
Financing a Self Build Property
Financing a Self Build Property
Investors are becoming increasingly aware of the money that can be made out of building property. This is all well and good; however, the financing of these ventures can be very complicated, putting many investors off an otherwise sound investment. Don’t be one of them!
Buying Land
Buying land in order to develop one or more properties is generally considered a sound financial investment, particularly for those with building experience who can cut the build costs to a minimum. Having said this, the process can be a lot harder, with plenty of hurdles that can easily trip up the inexperienced investor.
Financing is a huge issue for investors looking to self build; not only does the cash have to be raised to purchase the land, but there are also the regular payments that will be due to builders, architects and other professionals, along the way. A traditional mortgage is normally out of the question as companies will be reluctant to offer finance secured on a house that is not yet built. In addition, the cost of building a property often over-runs dramatically and developers could find themselves in a position of running out of funds, before the project is complete.
Many mortgage companies have realised that the issue of finance can prevent otherwise lucrative investments from going ahead. Based on this, there is now a wide range of ‘self build mortgages’ or ‘stage payment mortgages’ as they are often referred to by banks and brokers. Currently, there are approximately 50 self build mortgages available and although traditionally these were provided by specialist lenders, the trend has moved towards more mainstream establishments offering the same facilities, namely HSBC and Halifax.
Every lender has a different set of criteria although, as a general rule, a mortgage provider will not normally provide more than 75 percent of the cost of the building plot itself and not more than around 60 percent of the build cost of the property. Having said this, if cash is particularly tight, there are some specialist lenders such as Buildstore which will lend up to 95 percent of the value of the building plot. If you are looking for a large amount of financing, a specialist lender may be a better bet; alternatively, it may be possible to take out a personal loan, although these rates can be substantially higher and, therefore, have a negative impact on your potential profit. Another often favoured option is to take a larger mortgage on the current family home to make up the shortfall. This, however, has a degree of risk attached, because if you fail to make both payments, you could potentially find yourself homeless and investment-less!
Self build mortgages are normally paid out in five stages. This is a great way of going about the process of self build, as investors are not then paying interest on finance that they do not yet require. This is also very useful for controlling adequate budgeting and for helping new developers ensure that no one stage of the build runs terribly over budget.
The first stage will be the acquisition of the land although, as previously mentioned, it is unusual to receive more than 75 percent of the actual purchase cost. The second stage will be paid out at the completion of the foundations, third at the completion of the roof plate, fourth at the completion of the plastering and the final stage at the completion of the property.
Bear in mind that mortgage lenders are likely to require regular visits by their personnel for valuation purposes and to ensure that the final build is worth the amount of money that is being loaned by the bank.
Do not be put off by the complications of a self build mortgage; for those who battle through the paperwork, there is plenty of profit to be made!
For more information on self build mortgages, take a look at these sites:
www.selfbuild-mortgages.co.uk
www.selfbuildit.co.uk
www.projectmortgages.co.uk
Monday, 22 October 2007
Sunday, 21 October 2007
Supplier List
Supplier & Contact List | |
| Posted: July 6, 2006 12:00:00 AM | |
I'll only put in here contacts that I'm serious about, people that I would put my trust in to do a good job. I'm afraid I can't guarantee anyone else's work though! Preliminaries Peter Farmer (architect) Don Stevenson & Associates (site survey) Exterior Works Brickability East Anglia (chimneys & cills) Carey & Fox (windows) Cooper Paving & Building Services (groundworks) Hancocks Glazing (triangle window) H & P Aerials John Henry Civil Engineers (sewage works) Latta Loo Hire Profix (scaffolding hire) The Wood Floor Company (engineered flooring) White Roofing Services Interior Works Amina Technologies Ltd (plastered "in the wall" speakers) Anglia Fireplaces (Bellfire) Aquatechnic (wet room) BJ Waller (architectural ironmongers) Brian Mitchell (screeder) EGC Tiles (ceramic tile specialist) Invisible Heating Systems Ltd (under floor heating) Interconnection (audio, lighting & home cinema systems) Fermacell (Xella dry lining system) Giuseppe Piran (painting & decorating) Hafele (furniture fittings & hardware) Lee Mitchell (tiler & Brian's son) P&S Contracts (plumbing & under floor heating systems) Shape Electrical Total Kitchens QVS Electrical (electrical wholsalers) They didn't work for me but I've met them and they seem excellent. Back To Front Exterior Designs (exterior transformations) Design & Materials (project management) FDS Building Services Fusion Timber Frame John Meadows (carpenter) Hilton Heating Ian (tiler) Lawrence Smith Joinery Martin G Abbs & Sons (plumbing & heating) Network Electrical Snappy Couriers Terry Trundley (carpenter) The Sash Restoration Co. Ltd (sash windows) | |
TrackBack URL: http://selfbuilder.iuplog.com/utility/tb/?id=154197 Permalink: http://selfbuilder.iuplog.com/default.asp?item=154197 | |
Chic / Trendy Dish drainers
http://selfbuilder.iuplog.com/default.asp?item=186025
Eco Essentials - add to over time
WATER BUTT - Connected to the down spout to collect rainwater, saving your water bill.
COMPOST BIN - For any garden/biodegradable waste, reducing the volume of waste taken to landfill
Pilkington K glass which is a low emissivity coated glass that reflects heat back into the room,
saving energy and cost of heating.
A/B grade appliances in kitchen.
A grade boiler to promote energy efficiency.
Ceilings and walls insulated to current regulations-improving energy efficiency.
Built to a robust standard.
Low energy light bulbs increasing energy efficiency and lessening electricity cost.
Friday, 19 October 2007
How much room does a house need
FACTS AND FIGURES
| 1 | Only England and Wales have no minimum space standards for housing. All other European countries do. Even Scotland does! Comparative Study of the Control and Promotion of Quality in Housing in Europe, ODPM |
| 2 | Britain (including Scotland) have the smallest average room size and also we have the smallest newly-built dwellings in Europe: |
| 3 | British homes are becoming more condensed, with more rooms in the same space. Reduction in available living space is due to the inclusion of extra rooms, especially en-suite bathrooms and utility rooms. BCIS Five Year Review of UK Housing (RICS, 2005). |
| 4 | Old houses that are still lived in today have survived because they are roomy enough to adapt to lifestyles. Consumer Choice in Housing, the beginnings of a home buyer revolt: Ken Barlett et al, JRF 2002. |
| 5 | When faced with trade-offs consumers show that they strongly prefer additional bedrooms or larger rooms sizes to additional bathrooms. Preferences, quality and choice in new-build housing: Leishman, C et al for JRF 2004. |
| 6 | A study of 114 children, all aged four, in daycare and Head Start classes in New York found that pre-schoolers who lived in crowded homes and went to crowded daycare centres suffered more severe behavioural and cognitive development problems than children in just one of these crowded settings. Maxwell, L. (1995) Crowded homes and daycare centres located on http://www.news.cornell.edu/science. |
| 7 | A large-scale household survey into areas of West Belfast revealed an association between crowding and psychological distress among children. Blackman, T., Evason, E. and Melaugh, M. (1989) Housing and health: A case study of two areas in west Belfast, Journal of Social Policy, 18, 1-26. |
| 8 | People need enough space to be able to come together, and – crucially - to be apart and have some privacy. In accommodation designed for more than one or two people, this implies that there are either two separate living areas (one may be a dining room), or the bedrooms are large enough to allow the occupant(s) to use them for their private recreational activities or study/work as well as places for sleeping, dressing etc. Housing Space Standards, Drury et al for Greater London Authority, 2006. |
Wednesday, 17 October 2007
new House Wishlist
1) 3 double bedrooms
Desirable
1) Cellar
2) Games (exercise?) room - especially table tennis, pool, table football
3) grey water (from roof) for toilets etc
4) 4/5 double beds - 1 on ground floor
Areas to live in for good jobs
Enfield, Chase side area
Somewhere to live around london - not bad prices, good area I hope, good transport, space for kids. Not sure about kids
Also like Rotherhithe
Buy
Eg
£264,995
3 bedrooms
Semi-Detached
Census Banner Ad
OLDBURY ROAD, ENFIELD, MIDDLESEX
CHURCH'S ARE PLEASED TO OFFER FOR SALE THIS THREE BEDROOM END OF TERRACE PROPERTY LOCATED WITHIN EASY ACCESS TO ENFIELD HIGHWAYS LOCAL SHOPPING AND TRANSPORT FACILITIES. THE PROPERTY HAS POTENTIAL TO EXTEND TO THE SIDE (SUBJECT TO PLANNING PERMISSION). BENEFITS INCLUDE A 13FT KITCHEN, CONSERVATORY, DOWNSTAIRS FOUR PIECE BATHROOM SUITE, UPSTAIRS W/C, DOUBLE GARAGE AND OFF STREET PARKING. VIEWINGS ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
ENTRANCE
Via entrance door leading to storm porch with door to:
HALLWAY
Open plan to:
LOUNGE
16'0" x 11'8" (4.88m x 3.35m) Open plan stair case, coving to ceiling, decorative ceiling moldings, electric fire with back boiler with ornate fire surround, x three wall light points, laminate flooring, x two radiators with ornate covers, built in display cabinet and door leading to.
KITCHEN
13'10" x 8'4" (3.96m x 2.44m) Range of eye and base level wall units including rolled edge worktop surfaces, one and a half bowl sink unit with mixer taps, gas and electric cooker points, plumbing for washing machine, part tiling to walls, integrated fridge freezer, breakfast bar, ceramic floor tiling and window to rear aspect.
CONSERVATORY
15'2" x 9'8" (4.57m x 2.74m) Window to rear aspect and side aspect, electric heater, laminate flooring, television point, door to side, double doors leading to garden.
BATHROOM
Four piece suite comprising of panelled bath with mixer taps and shower attachment, hand wash basin, low flush w/c, shower cubical, tiling to walls, ceramic floor tiling, radiator with ornate cover and window to side aspect.
LANDING
Window to side aspect and doors to bedrooms.
BEDROOM ONE
12'1" x 10'4" (3.66m x 3.05m) (into) Range of built in wardrobes and drawers, double glazed window to front aspect, x two wall light points, dado rail, laminate flooring and radiator.
BEDROOM TWO
8'5" x 8'0" (2.44m x 2.44m) Double glazed window to rear aspect, dado rail, laminate flooring, radiator and access to loft.
BEDROOM THREE
9'10" x 7'1" (2.74m x 2.13m) (max) Double glazed window to rear aspect, laminate flooring and radiator.
UPSTAIRS W/C
Low flush w/c, hand wash basin and tiling to walls.
GARDEN
Raised patio area and decking area, steps down to further paved area with walled plant and shrub borders, further decking area towards centre, pagoda, ornate pond, further paved area to rear aviary and garden shed.
DOUBLE GARAGE
To side with power and lighting.
FRONT
Mainly paved with drive providing access to garage and off street parking.
RENT

£1,100PCM
3 bedrooms
House
Census Banner Ad
Willow Road, Enfield, EN1
FEATURES
Semi Detached
Three Bedrooms
Two Receptions
Off Street Parking
Available Now
Letting Type: Not Specified
The Accommodation Comprises:-
Entrance: Porch leading to Front Door.
Hallway: Stairs rising to First Floor.
Reception 1:
Reception 2:
Kitchen:
First Floor Landing:
Bedroom 1:
Bedroom 2:
Bedroom 3:
Bathroom:
Exterior: Front Garden: Mostly laid to lawn with mature shrub borders.
Rear Garden: Mostly laid to lawn.
Thursday, 28 June 2007
Auctions
Page 1. Page 2. Page 3. Page 4. Main Index.
| A Victor powell Address: Steps House, 12 St. John Street Bromsgrove Worcestershire B61 8QY Tel: 01527 832222 Fax: 01527 832472 Email: a.victor.powell@dial.pipex.com Web Site: www.avictorpowell.co.uk | Adkin Rural & Commercial Tel: 01235 862888 | Andrew Grant Address: 98 Colmore Row Birmingham West Midlands B3 2AA Tel: 0121 230 1000 Fax: Email: country.homes@andrew-grant.co.uk Web Site: www.andrew-grant.co.uk |
| Austerberry Address: 4 Edensor Road, Longton Stoke on Trent Staffordshire ST3 2NU Tel: 01782 594595 Fax: 01782 594455 Email: clive.austerberry@austerberry.co.uk Web Site: www.austerberry.co.uk | Bagshaws Uttoxeter Address: 17 High Street Uttoxeter Staffordshire ST14 7HP Tel: 01889 562811 Fax: 01889 563795 Email: uttoxeter@bagshaws.com Web Site: www.bagshaws.com | Bagshaws Lichfield Address: Lichfield Auction Centre, Fradley Park Lichfield Staffordshire WS13 8NF Tel: 01543 263256 Fax: 01543 415348 Email: lichfield@bagshaws.com Web Site: www.bagshaws.com |
| Bagshaws Bakewell Address: The Agricultural Business Centre Agricultural Way Bakewell Derbyshire DE45 1AH Tel: 01629 812777 Fax: 01629 814764 Email: bakewell@bagshaws.com Web Site: www.bagshaws.com | Bagshaws Ashbourne Address: Vine House Church Street Ashbourne Derbyshire DE6 1AE Tel: 01335 342201 Fax: 01335 300542 Email: ashbourne@bagshaws.com Web Site: www.bagshaws.com | Bagshaws Residential Address: The Cattle Market Derby Derbyshire DE21 6EP Tel: 01332 200147 Fax: 01332 200148 Email: property@bagshaws.com Web Site: www.bagshaws.com |
| Barry L Hawkins Address: The Estate Office, 15 Lynn Road Downham Market Norfolk PE38 9NL Tel: 01366 387180 Fax: 01366 386626 Email: info@barryhawkins.co.uk Web Site: www.barryhawkins.co.uk | Bensons | Berrys Address: 18 Market Place, Bingham Nottingham Nottinghamshire NG13 8AP Tel: 01949 836763 Fax: 01949 836764 Email: njb@berrybros.com Web Site: www.berrybros.com |
also http://www.auction.co.uk/default.asp?Auction=R
flue gases to preheat the hot water
THE XENEX GAS SAVER. This can be seen at www.zenexenergy.com. This recuperates the heat that would have been lost through the flue gases to preheat the hot water going through a combi boiler. Gas savings of around 40% have been reported in field trials. More information at (www.zenexenergy.com/docs/gassaver.htm)
Outside thermostats
"To these smart guys in Europe there was an added benefit; gas can be burnt at near 100 per cent efficiency and the temperature of the flue gas dropped considerably (from about 250°c to 25-70°c). This technology has gone down well with our neighbours - 80 per cent of all boilers in Holland have this control logic or are compatible with it."
Back in the 1960s and 1970s when I was young there were several winter rituals that my family in Suffolk had to observe to keep warm.
Alec Morrow; Enhance comfort, reduce bills, save the planet
Alec Morrow wants to help you reduce your bills and save the planet
This was in the days of no central heating, blasts of cold air from Siberia (where did they go?), frozen water pipes and frozen condensation on the inside of my bedroom window in the morning.
Such a life wasn't at the time considered hard, in fact we were relatively comfortable. Then came central heating, and my life was changed for ever! Siberia became less of a threat than Russia, and the frozen window panes became big puddles of water on the windowsill every morning
Oh what bliss of modern technology! It was heavenly to wake up in the warmth and not to have to run around turning on electric fires, stoke the cosy stove or light a fire.
I look back on those days of innocence with affection for the logic, when if it was cold you would turn on one bar of the fire (1kW), then as it got colder you would turn on two bars (2kW) or may be three (3kW) or even four (4kW).
We would stock up on wood with several wheelbarrows full for the week in mid winter and in spring and autumn less. Of course if it was really cold we put on an extra woolly jumper and an extra blanket on our beds.
Once the heating was installed a series of other questions were raised. Why did you have to have the hot water on to get heating? Why were some rooms difficult to heat? why was there always a draught up the chimney? And why did it have to get so cold in some rooms before the heating turned its self on from the thermostat?
Of course the opposite happened too, sometimes it was too hot, no one told the boiler that it was warmer today than yesterday and the house being poorly insulated still got very cold at night!
Being inquisitive I had the thermostat in pieces in no time only to find it was mis-calibrated, and the scoundrels of the manufacturers had made it too difficult for a 14 year old to adjust - I thought some special tool was needed.
advertisement
Of course this type of central heating system was all we in this country knew...it was all just the way things were and with cheap energy from the North Sea no one was really bothered by it. Hey, let's turn the heating up a bit, get a bigger radiator or open a window to cool down. Those days have gone now and it is unlikely that they will ever return.
That innocent childhood served me well as a heating engineer. It showed, as all our predecessors knew instinctively, that to maintain a comfortable temperature you need to vary either the amount of heat being released from the heating system (why use two kWs when one kW will do) or the amount of insulation to our bodies (woolly jumpers).
Science and technology has come along way since then and now the variable heat output that we designed ourselves has been taken over by the microprocessor.
But has it really changed so much? We have to have condensing technology to maximise the amount of heat our boilers get from the gas they burn. Building regulations state that the hot water cylinder should be supplied by pumped circulation rather than gravity because its more energy efficient, and we must have thermostatic radiator valves on all but one radiator, where the thermostat is placed, and this is from where the boiler is told to fire or not!
Other European countries, where energy has never been cheap, looked at the whole equation from a different perspective. If, they asked, a room is getting cool then its because it is losing heat. And with Teutonic logic, they deduced that the answer to keeping a house warm was to replace that lost heat.
Not wait until the one room had cooled off so much that a thermostat, which was probably mis-callibrated (and now I know missing a cable) decided to spring into action and turn the whole heating system on again.
These smart guys in Europe concluded from various studies that the way to keep a house comfortable was to keep various parts of it warm, namely the radiators. Instead of turning the heating on and off as measured from one particular place (the thermostat) they would measure the outside temperature and if it was cold turn the boiler up and if it was not so cold turn it down, just like we all used to do running around turning on the electric fires, stoking up the fire or letting it run down to cinders.
To these smart guys in Europe there was an added benefit; gas can be burnt at near 100 per cent efficiency and the temperature of the flue gas dropped considerably (from about 250°c to 25-70°c). This technology has gone down well with our neighbours - 80 per cent of all boilers in Holland have this control logic or are compatible with it.
Ceding control of your central heating system to the outside temperature returns us to the simplicity we loved. Only this time a microprocessor does it for you, but that microprocessor can do more - when heating your hot water, it ramps up the heat output according to the temperature of the hot water in the tank. Why use 25kW when 5kW will do?
What the Europeans had refined was a system called weather compensation, which literally compensated for the outside temperature. Recent studies by Viessmann Ltd (www.viessmann.co.uk) have confirmed that an additional 10-15 per cent of gas usage can be saved with the correct use of weather compensation on their condensing boilers.
This is on top of the 20-30 per cent that you can save by taking out an old cast iron heat exchanger found in so many of our homes, a big reduction in peoples carbon footprint.
#
Alec Morrow is director of Pleasing Plumbing Ltd (www.pleasingplumbing.co.uk)
Member of the Institute of Plumbing and Heating Engineering
Member of the Association of Registered Gas Installers
Corgi 219490
Wednesday, 27 June 2007
Monday, 25 June 2007
Valuations Office
http://www.voa.gov.uk/publications/property_market_report/pmr-jan-07/index.htm
jan 2007
maisonettes | |||
| Lincoln | 2,300,000 | 2,200,000 | 2,250,000 |
| Mansfield | 1,200,000 | 1,100,000 | 1,100,000 |
| Nottingham (suburbs) | 2,750,000 | 2,500,000 | 3,000,000 |
| Derby | 2,400,000 | 2,200,000 | 2,400,000 |
| Leicester | 2,600,000 | 2,400,000 | 2,500,000 |
| Northampton | 2,470,000 | 2,470,000 | 2,470,000 |
| Loughborough | 2,600,000 | 2,400,000 | 2,500,000 |
NN - 200k for a 0.2 acre site. P's house probably .1 acre
St. albans, double northampton, at least
Spring 2001, NN was about 1.4m for small site.
Plot Sizes
Self Build Guide - Self Build House Plot Sizes
http://www.uklanddirectory.org.uk/Self-Build-Houses-Plot-Sizes.htm
How big a plot do I need for a 1,800ft² four bed detached house?
How big is half an acre?
The average estate house these days is built on approximately 1/12th - 1/10th of an acre about 38ft x 95ft (11.5m x 29m).
This size plot may not allow for a very large garden or very good access around the house.
The minimum size for a plot can be easily calculated using the following formula:
Depth of plot = depth of proposed self build house + 65ft (20m)
Width of plot = width of proposed self build house + 10ft (3m)
When you view a plot always make sure you know the exact position of the boundaries. Always double-check the dimensions and when you return home transfer these to graph paper and have a paper cut out of the footprint of your proposed self build house to sit onto the site you have drawn.
land plot value = 45% of house price
How much should you pay for a plots of land for Sale?
A simple way to calculate plots of land for sale value is to find similar sized plots of land for sale in the area you are looking, that already has a property built. Find out from a local estate agent as to the market value of the property. The value of plots of land for sale should equate to approximately 45% of the market value. For example a four bed detached house on a site of 0.15 acre in the area your looking is priced at £150,000, the plot value would approximate to £67,500. The % value of plots of land for sale will vary from area to area greatly increasing in counties such as Surrey and Hertfordshire.
Friday, 22 June 2007
House Prices
Fig. 2: Ratio of real house prices to trend
Given our estimates of where we are in relation to trend and what the trend itself is, current market conditions imply a mean expected growth rate of about 1.4% over the next two decades, whatever the actual profile. Returns for shorter holding periods, however, are definitely impacted by the profile. A positive return over, say, ten years has quite a low probability. Implicitly, therefore, owners who think they can avoid erosion of real wealth by borrowing to finance a property purchase must be expecting real interest rates for a mortgage to be no more than about 1% pa. It cannot be ruled out but it is a very low-probability outcome.
How low can we go?
In real terms, a correction from over 30% above trend to about 30% below trend, as occurred with quite high inflation between 1989 and 1996, must again be a possibility.
If you knew only the past history and had no views about particular dynamics that might shape the next downswing, you might assign no more than a 10% chance to this. But the bears are focused on the particular impact of a housing bear market on consumer confidence, on consumer spending, on jobs and on the banking sector. They might therefore assign a greater probability to such a loss. They could reasonably argue that these dynamics are more akin to the equity market conditions of 1974 and that the low could well be even lower than 30% below trend – by which time, by the way, the measured trend will itself drop below 2%pa.
As professional investors, we try to make realistic estimates of the range of probable outcomes for all the assets we advise on or manage, but not over short periods and we avoid timing calls. Having estimates of long-holding period returns, we can respond to improving or deteriorating ‘competitiveness’ between assets by ‘phasing’ in or out. This may work for equities but not for property. If you have only one shot at an important decision, you cannot avoid making a call. I hope these fairly technical observations help you make that call, whether you are a would-be buyer or a seller.
Wednesday, 20 June 2007
Plot / Build prices
Here are two tips worth bearing in mind:
1) When making an offer on a plot, always work out how much you will have to pay for the actual build process – and then add another 10 or 20 per cent. If the price of the completed property is still at least 20 per cent less than a comparable one from a builder, you have a bargain.
2) You don’t have to find an empty plot. Many houses are on land that would be worth much more with a modern – perhaps larger and more attractive – property.
Eg. Cost of comparable house 200k
-20% =160k
Build cost=50k +15%=57.5
So land would be worth 100k (160k - 57.5k)
Eg. Cost of comparable house 300k
-20% =240k
Build cost=150k +15%=172.5
So land would be worth 67.5k (240k - 172.5k)
etc.....
MarketPriceOfHouse *.8 = MaxLandPrice + (buildCost*1.15)
MaxLandPrice = (MarketPriceOfHouse * .8) - (buildCost*1.15)(.8 is profit/risk [100%-20%], 1.15 is cost + 10-20% risk)
So 140k build, worth 250k on market
MaxLandPrice = (250 * .8) - (140*1.15)
MaxLandPrice = 200 - 161 =~ 40k
So 100k build, worth 250k on market
MaxLandPrice = (250 * .8) - (100*1.15)
MaxLandPrice = 200 - 115 =~ 85k
This is probably what we are after!
So 100k build, worth 300k on market
MaxLandPrice = (300 * .8) - (100*1.15)
MaxLandPrice = 240 - 115 =~ 125k
Estimating build costs
Here are several ways of doing this:
Rule of thumb: base it roughly on an estimated £50 per square foot, or £450 per square metre. This includes walls. For high specification houses (swanky bathrooms and kitchens, lots of hardwood, stone and glass) go up to £650 per square metre. Beware of problems on the site, which can add thousands to the final cost.
Be cheeky: ask a builder to quote for the work and then deduct 15% for doing it yourself. Or split the work into each trade job and ask for quotes for each item of work (harder, but more accurate).
The hard way: go through a builder’s price guide (Spon’s Builder’s & Architect’s Price Book, £69.50), available in all central libraries.
Or you can get it from this site
You can also try Mark Brinkley’s The Housebuilder’s Bible. Having read this book a few years ago, I think it’s superb.
You can either borrow it from a library or buy it here
TIP: most builders won’t be doing as much shopping around for their supplies as you might think: for them TIME is money, not materials.
By sourcing supplies more cheaply yourself, you could shave up to 5% per cent off total build costs.
Monday, 18 June 2007
Sunlight & Ventilation

http://www.sunpipe.co.uk
Loads of interesting stuff. But website went down before i could look at it more.
Monodraught have significantly improved the potential of Windcatcher systems by the addition of a solar driven internal fan that brings in additional fresh air up to 260l/s. Conversely, the fan operation can be set to extract stale air. All this without any energy cost. A unique feature of the system is the newly patented PowerTrack™ control system. This system works on the basis that the brighter the sun, the greater the speed of the boost fan. The unique switching results in 2½ times more power from the solar panel than can otherwise be achieved by a direct connection.
Also, a low power fan which is useful in tall buildings, basically sends the hot air downwards again.
Many people are now choosing to install ‘light pipes’ into areas of the home that are lacking in natural light. These are super reflective aluminium tubes with a mirror finish on the inside with a laminated surface. Sunlight and natural light are drawn down the tube into the area below, then dispersed by a fixture in the ceiling. They can be any length and so can twist and turn, piping light to the exact spot required.
Light pipes do not require as much structural disruption during installation as rooflights, as they are smaller, fitting in between rafters and roof joists.
Some models allow you to fit a small, low voltage halogen lamp just inside the lower section of the tube so that they can light up rooms at night as well as during the day.
Just as with rooflights, if light pipes are to be fitted in the bedroom, a blackout blind or shut-off system will avoid you being woken at dawn by a stream of bright light.
Some models incorporate ventilation, which can be either manual, or automatically control the amount of ventilation required.
In conservation areas or on listed buildings, standard rooflights will often be unacceptable to conservation officers.
Conservation Rooflights are more expensive than standard rooflights, as they are made from steel and not mass-produced. They are designed to replicate Victorian rooflights, so have a glazing bar and lie flush with the roof.
It is now possible to buy conservation light pipes, due to a collaboration between The Metal Window Company and Monodraught, who have developed a product known as The Conservation SunPipe. Externally the SunPipe looks like a Conservation Rooflight, but extends downwards like a light pipe, creating the same effect in the room below.
Roof Lanterns:
These are basically conservatory roofs – with or without low glass walls – which are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. They create a sense of height, flooding the space below with light.
Most conservatory companies offer a bespoke service for creating roof lanterns.
The simplest and cheapest rooflights are operated manually. If you plan to install the windows into a high roof, a pole will be required to reach them.
Add around £200-300 per window for rooflights with a basic electric opening system, usually controlled from a wall panel.
If you do not mind spending slightly more and are a fan of automated systems, a remote control panel will suit you. The most advanced of these include rain, heat and fire alarm sensors.
Extra Fittings:
Many companies offer sunscreens, additional opening devices and decoration. However, these can be bought separately and you might find you are able to save money by shopping around.
It may also be worth considering insect screens and awnings, to keep your new room cool and bug-free during summer.
Sun Tube

http://www.sun-tek.com
TubeSize | Tube Length Included | Maximum Tube Length | Area Illuminated | Order Code |
| 10 inches | 50" | 10 feet | 150 Sq Ft | STT 10 |
| 14 inches | 50" | 20 feet | 250 Sq Ft | STT 14 |
| 21 inches | 50" | 30 feet | 450 Sq Ft | STT 21 |
| Note: The 10 inch tube provides light equivalent to two 100 watt light bulbs (depending on application, conditions may vary) | ||||
Light Kit
You can use your Sun-Tek Tube as an extra light source
DAY OR NIGHTwith the addition of our special light kit.
Extension Tunnels
Extension tunnels are available in 20" and 34" lengths.
Great Design / Silo Stairs House
Really like this.
1) Simple design
2) All plumbing at one end of house
3) Silo stairs allow greater freedom in internal layout
4) Easily extended?
5) Tiny footprint -
Main Level: 6876) Excellent use of ground area without wasting space like most roofs do.
Second Level: 687
Total: 1,374 Sq. Ft.
Bedrooms: 3
Baths: 2
Width: 23'
Depth: 29'
Stories: 2
Foundations: Slab
7) Easily scaled up. what could you do with a 45' by 60' version?
Extra ideas...
- Bathroom on ground just needs to be wc. But en-suite needed for master upstairs.
- Could be built on a plot too small for other house designs.
- How about adding suntrap/lookout tower etc onto the silo?
- Carry on the stairs to a sunroom? Sun-bathing/drying washing/flood light in via windows to stairs and even a central sun-tube carrying extra light? Could make a sunroom with top clear, but not sides for our / neighbours privacy. Use a conservatory roof design?
- Have a basement with a swimming pool / games room. Endless pool with sunlight via sun-tube carried by silo?
- Have lots of skylights on lower roof?
small 4 bed
| Primary Style: | Victorian |
| Other style influences: | European Country |
| Main Level: | 923 |
| Second Level: | 900 |
| Total: | 1,823 Sq. Ft. |
| Bedrooms: | 4 |
| Baths: | 2 |
| Half Baths: | 1 |
| Width: | 30' |
| Depth: | 34' |
| Stories: | 2 |
| Foundations: | Unfinished Basement |
Main Level Click on image to enlarge | Advertisement Sponsor Spotlight | |
Second Level Click on image to enlarge |
Small footprint with silo (externall-ish_ stairs
Second Level: 687
Total: 1,374 Sq. Ft.
Bedrooms: 3
Baths: 2
Width: 23'
Depth: 29'
Stories: 2
House Plans: Two-Story Silo Holds Stairway to Second Floor
House Plan # HWEPL14108 | See the floor plan |
House Plan Details
House Plan Pricing
House Plan links
House Specifications
| Primary Style: | Country |
| Main Level: | 687 |
| Second Level: | 687 |
| Total: | 1,374 Sq. Ft. |
| Bedrooms: | 3 |
| Baths: | 2 |
| Width: | 23' |
| Depth: | 29' |
| Stories: | 2 |
| Foundations: | Slab |
Featured Articles
| |
| Get a rebate of up to $750 on these plans! |
| If you finance this home with IndyMac Bank, you'll receive a cash rebate on your entire plan purchase - up to $750!* Learning if you're approved is fast & easy. Click here for full details. |
House Plan Features
How Much Will This Cost to Build?
"Does this home fit my budget?" Find out how much it will cost to build this particular home in your specific zip code. |
Average Cost to Build
Cost to Build
| Low | Medium | High | |
|---|---|---|---|
| National | $130,874 | $164,907 | $198,928 |
| Northeast | $151,360 | $190,711 | $230,063 |
| Midwest | $122,437 | $154,273 | $186,108 |
| South | $114,056 | $143,707 | $173,371 |
| West | $169,593 | $213,684 | $257,776 |
Floor plans
Main Level Click on image to enlarge | Advertisement Sponsor Spotlight | |
Second Level Click on image to enlarge |
Smaller footprint homes
http://www.eplans.com/house-plans.hwx/Q/Plan.HWEPL02017/searchId.-1/offset.0/nav-context.browse
House Plans: Miniture Version Of Grand Manors
House Plan # HWEPL02017 | See the floor plan |
House Plan Details
This miniature version of the grand manors found in Europe loses nothing in amenities and gains a great deal in efficiences. The main level contains a family room warmed by a fireplace, a dining room that shares space with a kitchen and breakfast area, a laundry room, and a powder room. Bedrooms are located on the upper level. A spacious upper-level master suite features a private bath, a walk-in closet, and a balcony overlooking the front yard. Two additional bedrooms on the upper level share a full bath. This home is designed with a basement foundation.
| Primary Style: | European |
| Other style influences: | New American |
| Main Level: | 873 |
| Second Level: | 1,066 |
| Total: | 1,939 Sq. Ft. |
| Bedrooms: | 3 |
| Baths: | 2 |
| Half Baths: | 1 |
| Width: | 33' |
| Depth: | 36' |
| Stories: | 2 |
| Garage Bays: | 1 |
| Foundations: | Unfinished Basement |
| |
| Get a rebate of up to $750 on these plans! |
| If you finance this home with IndyMac Bank, you'll receive a cash rebate on your entire plan purchase - up to $750!* Learning if you're approved is fast & easy. Click here for full details. |
| Low | Medium | High | |
|---|---|---|---|
| National | $184,690 | $232,719 | $280,728 |
| Northeast | $213,600 | $269,133 | $324,666 |
| Midwest | $172,784 | $217,711 | $262,638 |
| South | $160,956 | $202,800 | $244,663 |
| West | $239,331 | $301,553 | $363,776 |
| Main Level Click on image to enlarge | Advertisement Sponsor Spotlight | |
| Second Level Click on image to enlarge |
| Exterior Images Click on image to enlarge | ||
|---|---|---|
